Festa de São João

It is time for yet another party in Braga! The Festa de São João is the city’s biggest and oldest annual street party. For a week leading up to St. John’s Day (June 24th), the historical city center is subject to a brilliant array of fun that blends Catholic traditions with pre-Christian midsummer customs like fire, dancing, and crop fertility rituals. This is apparently a northern Portugal thing. “Minho” is the name of both the river that forms Portugal’s northern border with Spain and the region north of Porto, containing Braga. So I now live in the Minho region, and Google refers to this festival as “a massive celebration of Minho identity.”

The eight days before St. John’s Day involve many things:
– Lots of little window displays combining folklore and Catholic symbols
– People going around tapping others people on the head with a plastic hammer for SOME reason
– Lots of food (particularly grilled sardines)
– Giving people little presents of leeks and garlic, which is a pretty obvious fertility symbol
– Big heads: paper mache puppets of recognizable and not-so-recognizable figures.

I don’t normally rely so heavily on Google, but sadly, I wasn’t feeling well this week AND we were going through a heat dome event as well. So I didn’t get out to many events and here are more links than usual, but they give a good idea of the fun to be had. Ignore the real estate pitches, if you can. (Note: I view links in Chrome with the Translate feature on, in case any or all of these are in Portuguese.)

https://citypulseevents.com/city/braga-portugal/festas-de-s-o-jo-o-de-braga-2026

https://www.festivalatlas.io/festival/st-john-s-festivities-of-braga?source=similar_window

https://www.engelvoelkers.com/pt/en/resources/regional/sao-joao-in-braga-the-greatest-festival-in-northern-portugal

A big part of São João here apparently includes a rivalry between Braga and Porto about who has the best celebration. I saw multiple signs stating “Braga: The Best Festa de São João!” That is a bold statement, my friend, but honestly, I don’t see how Porto could top this. If Braga Romana was historically and intellectually impressive, São João is just plain fun. There’s partying in the streets every night, and the two evenings I did get to see were full of food, music, and laughter. I wasn’t going to miss the gigantones (Big Heads) parade, though, so I dragged myself out on a sweaty evening to see it and take pictures. You’re welcome.

The Catholic imagery is easier to identify. I’m assuming any figure with a crown is historical.
And then there’s … Maggie Thatcher in a Portugal World Cup jersey? I don’t know who this lady is supposed to be, but I’m calling her Maggie.
A clever caterpillar giving me the side eye.
LOVE these playing cards, what a great yet simple costume.
I don’t recognize the robes, but I loved this little multicultural group. I think all future São João parades for me will be attempting to identify the figures.
And one more up-close side view before leaving the parade area.

Next year I know what to do, and I WILL get my grilled sardines.

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